Sun, sand and sea :)
Hey! Im back in Colombo for the last time. Seems like this is the only city with decent internet connection. All other places have modem which is incredible slow. Although they all claim to have broadband. If I ask: Do you have broadband/cable, the answer is yes. If I then ask: is it modem? They also say yes....and then its obvious they do not really understand what I am asking, but it usually turns out they have modem and it costs a fortune. In Colombo they really have broadband and it is 1/3 of the price in other areas. However, I did not expect to get good access outside of Colombo anyway, so Im actually impressed by all the internet places that did exist:)
(photo: CK & Gucci in front of the house we borrowed)
Anyway, last wednesday I met up with Ida, the Swedish girl and we decided to travel together to Unawatuna for some days untill I had to go back to catch my flight. Ida has been staying with her Uncle here in Colombo for a few weeks. She was also a bit deperate for some company :) When she told her uncle that we planned to go south, it turned out that her uncle had a friend who had a house in Unawatuna... and so it happend that we ended up staying there. A beautiful house with aircondition, beautiful garden and 2 German sheperds (guarddogs) called CK & Gucci. Luxury at last ;)
(photo right: Ida, the swedish girl)
The house was just across the street from the beach. When we got there I also realised that last time I was here I had been on the wrong end of the bay...because here it seemed to at be more yong people, still couples though, so still hard to get to know people as they tend to keep to themselves. Anyway, this time I had company so I didn't care. (photo: Dog drinking water)
We spent the days lazing about, but we didn't really stay that much on the beach since it was/is burning hot. It is about 35 C in the shadow these days and from 11 am to about 2-3 pm you will burn to death if you stay on the beach. Well, maybe not, but I didn't feel like testing it. So we tried to avoid that time of the day. We still got more than enough sun though and a lot of swimming in lukewarm water. (photo: me enjoying beachlife)
We were even so lucky that we met Mr. Massageman. He introduced himself like this: "Hello, my name is massageman". "Hehe...oh really? Nice for you..goodbye"! He didn't take our ignorance as a defeat though. There were quite a lot of touts/beggars frequenting the beach, but as long as we ignored them they seemed to avoid us...but massageman was a bit funny, he seemed a bit hyperactive. Everytime he approached anyone he waived his arms in all directions claiming that the whole beach was his area. (My area, my area, you come get massage!) :o However after enough of ignoring looks from us he finally trodded off to find new victims.
Apart from beachlife there wasnt much else to do. Unawatune is a pretty quiet village. We did go into the city of Galle and look the fort built by the Dutch when they ruled...and on one end of the bay in Unawatuna there is a small Buddhist temple that we visited. (photo: Buddhist temple)
And sometimes I just went to the house and stood infront of the aircondition while drinking icecold water....it was really a good feeling. (At home I normally sit on the heater though..hehe the opposite is the case here)
Hm...what else, not a lot. We had monkeys on the roof one day and the dogs went crazy..ah and I almost forgot; while on the beach a dog peed in Ida's bag!! (both tragic and funny)
I'm heading home on wednesday so not much more to write, but I migth do one more entry with stuff I have forgotten to mention or just simple observation from Sri Lanka. I have seen and experienced soo many things everyday and I have not managed to write half of it down (then I would have to spend all my time in internet cafes) but i'll see if I can add some keywords or similar later.
Sunday morning I caught the train to a town called Nuwara Eliya (Noo-ray-lee-ya), meaning " City of light". It is at an altitude of 1990 m and the highest city in Sri Lanka. The climate is cool, like eternal spring apparently. I have not been able to figure out why it is called city of light though...however it was an interesting railjourney...(in lack of a better description). The train was jam-packed with people and didn't have an allocated seat, but I was very lucky to find a free seat in 2.nd class. (photo: teaplantations at Pedro Tea Estate)
From experience I had now decided that if any guys tried to talk to me I would just talk back in Norwegian so maybe they would leave me alone. Well, so much for that idea... as luck would have it the guy standing next to my seat in the aile was deaf! So he used sign language and kept tapping me on the shoulder all the time to attract my attention. Then after about 10 minutes he figured out that my armrest was a good place to sit..and I couldnt really refuse either. However it took just about 10 more minutes until he was sitting on half the seat and half in my lap!!!!!!!??? I tried to show him I wanted some space, but it was no use. So for about 3 hours I had him half in my lap, while still tapping my shoulder every other second. (!)
I was happy when the train finally reached Nuwara Eliya. Hardly off the train though a taxi guy starts nagging me to go with his taxi. However I had to buy a return ticket first so I told him no thank you. But he did not give up, so when I had bought my ticket he was still there waiting and pleading me to come along. So finally I agreed to join his taxi into town. I shared it with an English couple, Sara and Ky. (photo: people walking on the track , train going away from people !)
In the evening he invited me to go to a pub, first I was a bit skeptic, but I was also bored with not meeting any people, so I accepted. It was yet another "interesting" conversation. We seemed to have A LOT in common (not). He liked van damme, terminator and A-HA :o
The next morning I wanted to change guesthouse. However when the owner heard about the animal incident, he offered me a new room, so I accepted on condition that we check it properly for animals . Ok, so he told me it would be ready in 10 minutes. After 2,5 hours and a bit of complaining I finally got it and I got it for half price. Oooh, Im getting good at negotiationg ;) When I first told him I wanted it for half price, he said it was not possible. Then I just grabbed my bag and started to leave and suddenly it was "very possible" afterall:) So it all ended well and I spendt a few hours catching up on my sleep.
The next morning I already had a returnticket back to Colombo, so I caught a taxi to the train station early in the morning and once again (this was a new taxi guy). The conversation started as always, where are you from? Are you married? Then I asked him back just to be polite and of course he answers; "No I don't like Sri Lankan girls, I only like European!" This is getting a bit annoying. It is not always fun to be alone in a van in the middle of nowhere with a guy who only like European girls. However most people are really friendly here, so its not actually a very real risk, just my paranoia giving me some stress ;)
Well, now I'm back in Colombo for the x'th time (lost count). Im going to meet a Swedish girl in a bit. She has also been here for about 3 weeks. It will be fun to hear her experience.
I don't regret going here, it has been a crazy experience, both good and bad, but I'm not sure I would return, at least not alone. I have never had as much hassle in any other country as here (not even India (or perhaps my memory is tricking me? hehe) . Or maybe I just hit a patch of bad luck, so don't be put off by my experience:)
Im back in Kandy (the hill city)..since I had a bit of bad luck last time I was here I didn't see a lot of the place. So I had to give it another chance. I came up yesterday. Left Colombo with the 7 am train. I didn't realise that the train had a 1.st class carriage, so I bought 2.class. When I finally found my seat the guy next to me looked at me a bit strange and wondered why I was in 2.class. "All tourists usually in 1.class", he said. Ah, well I didn't really care, not much of a difference anyway. Problem is though that I of course ended up in a conversation with this guy. He seemed nice and probably was nice, but its like they have read a textbook about how to talk to foreigners. (photo above: Buddha at Dambulla cave entrance)
This morning I rented a taxi for the whole day and went up to a place called Sigiriya. There is a rock fortress 1600 year old, a huge rock in the middle of the plains which is made into a kind of fotress. An impressive sight. I walked up almost to the top (400 m above sealevel i think) and there was an incredible view from there. Then I went to Dambulla, another historical site which has some interesting cave temples dedicated to Buddha. On the way back we stopped in a spice garden too. So I had a full on day. (photo: Sigiriya cave painting)
I have still not met a lot of younger independent travellers though, it seems like the majority of people are families, middle/old aged people. Only once in a while do I see travellers my age and then they are usually couples on a romantic holiday. I did see one guy who seemed to be travelling alone though ...I was almost about to run after him to ask if he wanted some company..but of course I didn't.(hehe) But I am getting a bit desperate for some more people to talk to and share experiences with. I might meet up with a Swedish girl in a few day though. I hope that will work out. One can go slightly mental when only talking to tuk tuk drivers, their English isn't that elaborated, not to offend them, but it is a fact and my English is detoriating after too much time talking with them only :)
Let's see...Monday morning I woke up to rain and thunder in Unawatuna and since I was desperate to meet other travellers I decided to try my luck even further south along the coast, in a village called Mirissa. So once again i boarded a tuk-tuk. It was almost an hour to drive there, but it was a pretty nice drive if you try to not take notice of all the bumps and huge buses careening past on full speed) (photo: Unawatuna beach, Buddhist temple in the background)
This morning I got a lift into town and then took a tuk-tuk to Pettha, which is the old part of town, kind of market place full of rickety houses and in a pretty messy state. The plan was to do some photograhy. However I was the only white person in sight and the huge camera didn't really make me any less visible, so after 20 minutes I left. Pettah is also the poorer part of Colombo. Many of the homeless people live in this area. It sad to walk around there as there are so many people not having anything in their life. That makes me feel very bad for walking around taking photos. It did not feel right so I did not take a lot of photos and left pretty soon. It makes you feel very helpless. I've decided to support an NGO working here when I get home though. So at least to try and be of help. I think its a better way to contribute than to give to beggars.
By the way, yesterday when I was going back from town I managed to direct the tuk-tuk driver all the way to my relatives house! (wow, I even impressed myself). Its a relief to know where I am going. It makes me feel less lost and then the tuk-tuk drivers can't fool me so easily :)
Today I have been here 2 weeks, but it feels like I have been here at least a month. So much stuff is happening every day so it makes time seem a lot longer. I am back in Colombo though, due to kind of impuls. I was in Unawatuna, which was a beautiful bay and great for relaxing and swimming, but there were NO people to talk to. It was full of old German tourists and the odd romatic couple, plus some families with small children. So I became desperate for someoneto talk to. I do get a bit tired of only taking to the people in the shops and guesthouses. I can only cope with a certain amount of : "what country...are you married...where are your children" questions. I have made up some good lies though. I now have 2 children and my husband is a teacher, but he had to stay at home and work;) hehe.....well it is the only way to get a little bit of peace!
There is by the way a LOT to update from the last few days, but just now I am soo tired, so will try to do it tomorrow. Today is my birthday though and by accident 2 Norwegian girls I met on the plane down here where in Colombo today, so we did some shopping together and they treated me to birthday lunch at the Hilton!! Very nice indeed. No Im off to the house for some relaxing. Will probably go uphill again in a few days. I'll do a more detailed updating tomorrow if I get time.
Finally i have found a place that is not too hectic. After Ambalagoda I went down a little more south (I'm moving south all the time now), to Hikkaduwa, a beachtown. However the place was incredible hectic with a motorway running right through it, inflated prices and way too many tourists. So I stayed only one night. Spendt most of the day reading a book I borrowed from my guesthouse and watching surfers on the waves. A lot of surfers here:) Often very good looking too, but they seem to be a bit ubercool. So I didnt get to know any of them. (photo: Unawatuna beach)
I had a room which wasn't in the greatest shape, but it had a nice balcony with a view to the beach, so it was great for watching the sunset . In the night though I realised that the fan in the room only had effect on one specific area and the bed was not in that area! It was sweltering HOT. I thought at one point to drag the bed under the fan, but then the mosquito net would not fit, as it was attached to the ceiling. So I had to choose, mosquito bites or overpowering heat. I chose heat and as a result I slept only 2 hours on and off that night. So was pretty knackered this morning.
Im now in a small village 2 hours by train south of Colombo. Not my plan, but then again, I dont really have much of a plan. Yesterday morning i took a tuk-tuk (small three-wheel car) to the train station and bought a ticket to go to Galle. A city almost on the southern tip of Sri Lanka. Famous for some Dutch fort. Anyway, while waiting for the train, this old, kind looking man start to talk with me and of course he wants to tell me he has a guesthouse in a very nice place and is hinting that I should come with him. Normally I don't follow people trying to convince that their place is great, but this time it sounded really nice and since I didnt have any specific plans in Galle I thought i'd give it a try. (photo: Kumari & her friend buying fish)
And I was not dissapointed. Its a very nice guesthouse in a quiet village, owned partly by a German guy. The Sri Lankan family who lives here are also very kind. After I arrived here two of the girls invited me with them to go to the market to buy vegetables and fish. That was pretty interesting and chaotic. One has to haggle over each litte item and since I was with them they got bad deals (since I am a foreginer) so sometimes I had to pretend I didn't know them. Hehe..!
This morning I went with Sena, (the old man I met at the trainstation). He took me to a turtle hatchery/rescuing place. There I saw newly hatched sea turtls and was allowed to hold them . They were incredible cute! I also saw them in bigger sizes, but normally they release them into the sea after 3 days, unless the turtle is sick or something. We also went to see some mask carving and a mine. So I really did my bit of sightseeing today.
On the way to the temple we saw a big varan
Unfortunately I didn't get very far on my trip, instead I'm back in Colombo. It all started really well. Friday early morning I went to the trainstation and got on the train to kandy (the city in the hills). It was a 2,5 hour journey up through fantastic landscape. The observation carriage on the train was at the back and my seat was so that I had a 180 degree view of the scenery (photo right is view from train)
Im still in Colombo, which is a noisy and hectic city. However after being here almost 3 days now, it isn't really as chaotic as it may seem at first. Compared to the cities of India, it is a lot more organised, cleaner and not as much poverty and beggars.
Last night I went with Solveig & David (my dad's cousin and her husband) to a seafood restaurant on the beach. A really great place and perfect sunset plus food. Solveig and David have lived in Sri Lanka for 19 years. I have never met them before, only got in touch with them a few weeks before I left. Im happy for that, because it feels a bit safer to know I have somewhere to go incase there is an emergency.
Tomorrow I go to Kandy, the next biggest city, which lies in the hills. Its a good base to explore the hill country. I also managed to get a seat in a special observation car in the train, first class, for only 14 NOK (about 2 $) !! Im excited about the trip, since the scenery is supposed to be really beautiful.
Finally Im here. The flight down was pretty exhausting. I left home at 5 pm sunday and didn't arrive in Colombo until 2 am Tuesday morning. Then i don't think I had slept for almost 30 hours.
Next morning i flew to Prague, where i waited 4 hours. Then on to Dubai where there was a 30 min wait in the airport..and what an aiport! No need to go to the beach, one could just stay there; fake palmtrees deorated with lights, carpet imitating sand dunes and a lot of other glittery things. Oh, and one more thing, Dubai was an amazing city to see from the sky at nighttime. I have never seen soo much light ever before. The wole city was like a christmas decorated american house, multiplied by a million!!! Pretty awesome! (photo: Dubai airport)
Well, from there we flew straight to Colombo, arrived around 7 am local time and luckily I found my relatives outside the airport, once i stepped out. They picked me up in a car. I have never met them before, but they are really friendly and helpful.
I went to the railway station to buy a ticket earlier and a guy aksked if I needed help. I was super skeptic, because when this happend in India there was always a scam coming up. However this guy really just wanted to help and showed me where I could buy my ticket :) So im happily surprised.

